Saturday, December 15, 2012

The Village of Embera Quera



   
  In Panama there are 7 living Indian Cultures, one of which is the Embera Indians. Most of the tribes live deep in the jungles of Darien but now some have moved their villages to the banks of the Chagres River.
  The Embera are living in real villages and are committed to preserving a traditional lifestyle, values, & culture.

  Many of the villages do welcome in visitors now to provide money to the village & to share their culture with us.


   There are many tours now  of different villages but not all are Authentic villages some now are what is known as demonstration villages where people don't really live.  Not wanting to do a Demo village I did some research & picked Anne Gordon de Barrigón who is married to an Embera  man & has tours.  Everyone has said she is one of the best.


Unfortunately Anne was ill & could not take us but sent Daniel to be our guide. He was wonderful & told us all about the history of the Embera people along with information about what we would be experiencing.

  To get to there we needed  to travel along the river in a boteros which is a  dug out canoe. To speed thing up they now use motors on the boteros. 

 It was a beautiful trip, seeing many birds, monkey's & a sloth.
   The village we went to was the  Embera Quera  which means "Embera Perfume" in their native language.  It is Anne's husbands uncle, Atilano village. When you first arrive they are all there to greet us with traditional music.
  Atilano spends some time telling us about their lives & culture.
 We then took a walk with the medicine man, Miguel Flaco who showed  us many of the different plants uses for medicinal treatments. It was really very interesting. We even tried a leaf that numbs your mouth.
   We then had lunch which was a traditional meal fried plantains & fish. It was delicious. 





     After lunch the women danced some of there traditional dances. We then had a chance to all dance with them. 





I was very entertained watching George dance with the ladies.

I got a tattoo made with fruit juice dye. Thankfully it's only lasts 10 days. Its not a good look for me.
When it was time to leave to little boys come take you my the hand & lead you back to the canoe.
  The Embera people are a warm friendly group & it was an interesting experience. 


This is the mid wife for the tribe. She is 70 yrs old and has delivered many children both here at this village but mostly when they were living in the Darien.

All children now have to go to school.  Some go outside their village but here they have their own school room. One room all grades up to 6th. The teacher comes in each week and lives there while she teaches. At this time school is over until Feb. They are learning English.
   The girl in the above picture is hoping to attend high school next year.  10% of the cost of the tour is given to the Children's Education fund.








 The location of their village is very beautiful


  

3 comments:

  1. Hello Jill, I'll be traveling very soon to Panama and I'd love to visit a real Indigenous village, not a demo village where people do not live. Would be so king to give me the contact of the guide, if you still have it... ? Many thanks in advance. Florent The_small_land@hotmail.com

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  2. I will be happy to get you that information. I will email it to you

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  3. How fun to come across your blog. We had the pleasure of having one of the EQ members, Marco, who is Atilano's 3rd son, stay with us as a teen high school exchange student in Kansas City for 2008/2009 through the grace of one man paying Marco's way. I see at the time of your visit, Marco had come to visit us for 4 months. One of your photos features Mitzi, Marco's mother and Marco's sons, Marco and Robert.
    Many of the Embera from Anne's tribe and EQ played principle character roles in the film "End of the Spear", based on the true story of American missionaries who were martyred in the 1950s.
    Although tourists bring in money, the tribes overall income is still meager. Atilano and his eldest son are working toward building strong eco tourism while preserving and sharing their culture. This will help improve some living conditions and toward advance education for the children, which must be fully funded by family beyond 6th grade. I do know Lisbeth's (Marco's sister) school costs $50 per month, which is a significant chunk of money. To attend school beyond 6th grade, the children board a boat to go to the city. While many native people live on government land, Atilano and other tribal elders elected to buy their own land so that they had control of development of their village. From what I understand, they are wanting to create overnight accommodations for eco tourism so that we, who are used to creature comforts, do not have the time constraints of the daily tour while also enjoying modern conveniences. Of course, one does have the option of the real experience of sleeping in the open air huts on a mattress under a mosquito net and bathing in the creek as the Embera do! You may contact me at mollinator1@juno.com or jcmacademy@yahoo.com if you like.

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